C2C BROKERS INC. — COMMON QUESTIONS
https://c2cbrokers.com/questions
Licensed mortgage lender/broker in CA, CO and VA. Licensed mortgage broker in FL. NMLS #2121587.
Phone: (949) 346-7303   Email: Eli@c2cbrokers.com
Office: 2334 Butler Bay Dr N, Windermere, FL 34786

These answers are general information, not a quote or a commitment to lend.


Q: What is C2C Brokers?
A: C2C Brokers is an independent mortgage brokerage based in Windermere, Florida. We're licensed as a mortgage lender and broker in California, Colorado and Virginia, and as a mortgage broker in Florida. Rather than push one product, we shop your loan across more than thirty wholesale lenders and bring you the best fit. Our company NMLS number is 2 1 2 1 5 8 7.
   (also asked as: who are you; what do you do; tell me about your company)

Q: What states are you licensed in?
A: Four states. In California, Colorado and Virginia we're licensed as a mortgage lender and broker. In Florida we're licensed as a mortgage broker. Either way we shop your loan across more than thirty wholesale lenders. If your property is somewhere else, tell us anyway and we'll point you toward someone who can help.
   (also asked as: where do you lend; do you lend in my state; what states)

Q: Where are you located?
A: Our office is at 2334 Butler Bay Drive North in Windermere, Florida. That said, most of our clients never come in — the whole process can be done by phone, email and e-signature.
   (also asked as: what is your address; are you local; do I need to come in)

Q: What are your hours?
A: We answer the phone through the business day and well beyond it, and we return calls in the evening and at weekends when a file needs it. Leave your name and number and a loan officer will call you back.
   (also asked as: when are you open; are you open now; opening hours)

Q: How do I reach a real person?
A: Call 9 4 9, 3 4 6, 7 3 0 3, or email Eli at c2cbrokers dot com. If you'd rather we call you, leave your name and number and we'll ring you back.
   (also asked as: speak to someone; talk to a human; phone number)

Q: What's the difference between a mortgage broker and a bank?
A: A bank can only offer you its own products, at its own rates. A broker sends your file to many different lenders and puts them in competition with each other. That matters most when your situation is unusual — self-employed income, credit that needs work, or a property type some lenders won't touch.
   (also asked as: why use a broker; broker versus bank; why not just go to my bank)

Q: Does using a broker cost me more?
A: No. Brokers work with wholesale pricing, which is generally better than the rate the same lender offers at its own branch. Our compensation is disclosed in writing on your Loan Estimate, so you can see exactly what it is before you commit to anything.
   (also asked as: how do you get paid; what do you charge; is there a fee)

Q: How do I get started?
A: The quickest way is a short conversation — about fifteen minutes — to understand what you're trying to do. From there we can usually get you pre-approved within a day or two once we have your documents. There's no cost and no obligation.
   (also asked as: how do I apply; what's the first step; can I get started)

Q: Do you pull my credit to give me a quote?
A: Not to start. We can talk through options and give you a realistic idea using the credit score you tell us. A credit check comes later, when you want an actual pre-approval a seller will take seriously.
   (also asked as: will you check my credit; does this hurt my credit; soft pull)

Q: What documents will I need?
A: For most people: two recent pay stubs, two years of W-2s, two months of bank statements, and a photo ID. If you're self-employed, we'll usually want two years of tax returns, or we can look at a bank statement program instead. We'll send you an exact list for your situation.
   (also asked as: what do you need from me; paperwork; what documents)

Q: How long does it take to close?
A: A typical purchase runs about three to four weeks from application to closing, and a refinance is often a little quicker. It depends on how fast documents come back and how the appraisal goes, so we'll give you a realistic date once we see your file.
   (also asked as: how fast can you close; closing timeline; how long does it take)

Q: What's the difference between pre-qualification and pre-approval?
A: A pre-qualification is an estimate based on what you tell us, with nothing verified. A pre-approval means we've actually reviewed your credit, income and assets. Sellers take pre-approvals seriously and generally ignore pre-qualifications.
   (also asked as: prequalified versus preapproved; what is a pre-approval)

Q: What credit score do I need?
A: It depends on the program. FHA loans can go down to 580 with three and a half percent down, and to 500 with ten percent down. Conventional loans usually want 620 or better. Individual lenders often set their own higher minimums, which is one of the advantages of shopping several.
   (also asked as: minimum credit score; my credit is bad; can I qualify with bad credit)

Q: Can I get a mortgage if I'm self-employed?
A: Yes, and it's one of the things we do most. If your tax returns don't show enough income after deductions, we have bank statement programs that qualify you on deposits instead, usually over twelve or twenty-four months. There are also profit-and-loss programs and asset-based options.
   (also asked as: self employed; business owner; 1099; bank statement loan)

Q: How much do I need for a down payment?
A: Less than most people think. Conventional loans start at three percent down, FHA at three and a half, and VA and USDA loans can be zero down if you qualify. There are also down payment assistance programs in several states worth asking about.
   (also asked as: down payment; how much money do I need; zero down)

Q: What is debt to income ratio?
A: It's your total monthly debt payments divided by your gross monthly income, and it's the number that most often decides whether a loan works. Many conventional loans go up to about forty-five percent, and some programs allow more when the rest of the file is strong.
   (also asked as: DTI; how much debt is too much)

Q: Can I buy a home if I have student loans?
A: Usually yes. Student loans count toward your debt to income ratio, but how the payment is calculated varies by program, and some are more generous than others. That difference alone can change whether a file works, which is a good reason to shop.
   (also asked as: student loan debt; student loans)

Q: What types of loans do you offer?
A: Conventional, FHA, VA and USDA loans, jumbo loans, home equity lines and home equity loans, and a range of non-QM programs — bank statement, profit-and-loss, asset depletion and DSCR loans for investors. Also renovation and construction financing.
   (also asked as: what loans do you do; loan programs; do you do FHA)

Q: Do you do VA loans?
A: Yes. VA loans are one of the strongest programs available — no down payment, no monthly mortgage insurance, and if you receive VA disability compensation the funding fee is waived entirely. We'll pull your Certificate of Eligibility for you.
   (also asked as: veteran; VA loan; military)

Q: Do you work with first-time buyers?
A: A great deal of our business is first-time buyers. There's no penalty for being new to this — and there are assistance programs specifically for first-time buyers that many people have never heard of.
   (also asked as: first time buyer; never bought before)

Q: Can I get a loan for an investment property?
A: Yes. Alongside conventional investment financing we do DSCR loans, which qualify on the property's rent rather than your personal income — no tax returns and no employment verification. That's what most investors with several properties use.
   (also asked as: rental property; investment property; DSCR)

Q: Should I refinance?
A: It comes down to the break-even: how many months of savings it takes to cover the cost of doing it. If you'll keep the loan comfortably past that point, it's usually worth it. We'll run the numbers for you, and we'll tell you honestly if it isn't.
   (also asked as: is it worth refinancing; refinance; should I refi)

Q: Can I take cash out of my home?
A: Usually, yes, if you have equity. Most lenders will go to eighty percent of the value on a primary residence. If your current mortgage rate is very low, a home equity line or a second mortgage often makes more sense than refinancing the whole thing.
   (also asked as: cash out; home equity; HELOC; borrow against my house)

Q: How much are closing costs?
A: For a buyer, commonly two to five percent of the price, but it varies a lot by state because the big items are set by state law. There's a calculator on our website that uses the real figures for Florida, California, Colorado and Virginia.
   (also asked as: closing costs; what will I pay at closing; cash to close)

Q: Can you tell me what rate I'd get?
A: Not without looking at your situation — an honest rate depends on your credit, your down payment, the property and the program, and anything else would be a guess. Give us fifteen minutes and we'll get you a real number in writing.
   (also asked as: what are your rates; current rates; todays rate)

Q: Do you have a mortgage calculator?
A: Yes, several on our website — a payment calculator, an affordability calculator, a closing cost estimator by state, and a refinance break-even calculator. There's also a mortgage encyclopedia with about a hundred and eighty terms explained.
   (also asked as: calculator; estimate my payment)

Q: Is my information safe with you?
A: Yes. We only collect what's needed to place your loan, we don't sell your information, and our privacy policy is on the website. One important thing: we will never send or change wire instructions by email or text. If you get anything like that, stop and call us on the number you already have.
   (also asked as: privacy; is this secure; wire fraud)

Q: What if I've been turned down before?
A: It's worth another conversation. A decline at one lender is one lender's guidelines, not a verdict — and it's exactly the situation where shopping several lenders helps most. If the answer really is not yet, we'll tell you what to fix and roughly how long it takes.
   (also asked as: I was denied; turned down; declined)